Thursday, May 30, 2013

Risi e bisi... a peas risotto, or almost!

Peas are finally here!

Peas are one of the first fruits of the garden after winter!
If you were born in the Northeastern part of Italy, you know what I am talking about. If you weren't ... don't worry, you can always try this recipe.

Let's talk about ingredients.
Peas... as fresh as possible and yes, with the pods, please! I would say a pound of peas in the pod is good for 3.

Shell the peas, clean the pods taking out the top and the bottom of the pods, and remove any lateral filament. Put the pods in cold water, add salt, and bring to boil. Once it starts to boil, let simmer for 25 minutes. Let it cool down and then with an immersion blender, puree the pods. Filter the puree, and don't worry it comes out watery. Remove any filaments you may find.
Now, let's go cooking the risotto.
Traditionally, vialone nano should be used but any other rice for risotto (carnaroli, arborio, roma to name those that can be found in the US: if you find baldo buy it and call me!) is fine, as long as it is for risotto. How much rice? I normally use 1/4 cup per person.

Chop finely half of an onion and a garlic clove.
In a pan put some extra virgin olive oil and when it's hot add the onion. Let the onion sweat and add some white wine. Simmer until onion is translucent. Add the peas, and stir gently.
Add the rice, and keep stirring so that the rice gets well coated (the so-called tostatura which, nonetheless does not mean you have to toast the rice!).


At this point, add the garlic, some chopped parsley, and some of the pods' puree and broth.
Preparing risotto requires constant attention on medium to high. Keep adding broth whenever it is necessary to keep the rice just under the liquid, and keep stirring.
Once it is almost done, you can add some butter and grated parmesan (the so called mantecatura).
The mantecatura adds that extra creaminess to the risotto, but believe me, if you do the tostatura right, and you cook the rice on medium high and you keep adding the pods' broth (or even water if your pods' broth runs out) and you keep stirring, your risotto will come out naturally creamy and just right!

A hint for this recipe. In Venice they usually prepare it all'onda. "What's that?" I hear you say.
 First of all, any risotto can be done all'onda, depending on your taste, of course. All'onda - which means wavy - implies that the rice has not absorbed all the liquid. It does not mean watery either: the liquid should be rich and full of the starch the rice released during the cooking process.
To reach the right point, you have to add the last ladle of broth one minute before the rice is cooked.
The mantecatura boosts the creaminess, but sometimes it "hides" or "covers" the wateriness of the risotto.
A small historical note on the dish. It was served to the Doge of the Serenissima Republic of Venice on April 25th, Saint Mark's day, to celebrate Spring. 

2 comments:

  1. Thank you, Lino. My father used to make a wonderful risotto which I have never been able to reproduce. After reading your blog, I feel ready to try again. I am looking forward to your next entry.

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  2. The tricky thing is the creaminess! That's where all the action is...

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